In the charming town of Hōnaunau on the west coast of Hawaii’s Big Island lies Kona, a renowned area celebrated for its ideal climate, elevation, and fertile soil, perfect for cultivating coffee beans. The coffee produced here is famously labeled “Kona Coffee,” making it one of the most expensive varieties in the world.
Susan Wang and her husband, Terry Fitzgerald, operate two coffee farms in this picturesque region. For the past twenty years, this couple has personally attended to their coffee trees, handling everything from pruning to fertilizing to harvesting. They met in Yunnan and set down roots in Hawaii, where their love story has blossomed just like the rich coffee beans they cultivate.
The Kona region boasts exceptional conditions for coffee cultivation, but recent challenges with pests have started to affect yields. As we spoke in early September, it marked the beginning of the coffee harvest season. However, the maturation of coffee cherries varies, meaning the harvest can span several months, typically involving four to six pickings before the end of the year. All harvesting must be done by hand, leading Susan and Terry to hire seasonal workers, many of whom are Spanish-speaking. Beyond the harvest, they are also deeply involved in processing the ripe coffee cherries, drying the beans, and maintaining the health of their trees through pruning, weeding, and fertilizing. Remarkably, Terry, who is 85 this year, continues to work diligently on the farm every day.
In recent years, there has been a troubling rise in pest issues, perhaps exacerbated by climate change. Pests such as the Coffee Berry Borer (CBB) and leaf rust have begun to threaten their supply. Susan’s farm, which could normally produce around 300 bags (approximately 100 pounds each) per year, saw yields drop to less than a third of that in the most affected year.
As they navigate the inevitable impacts of climate change on farming, the Kona region’s prime geographical and weather conditions continue to uphold its reputation for producing some of the finest coffee beans globally. Susan shares that most of their beans are sold wholesale to Japan, with a smaller portion directed to local and retail customers. Many of their coffee trees are quite mature, with most between seventy and eighty years old, and the oldest even reaching a century. Looking ahead, Susan hopes to gradually replant their trees to increase yields and resistance to pests, aiming to reach even more retail coffee enthusiasts with their premium beans.
Originally from the beautiful and fertile Xishuangbanna in Yunnan, China, Susan moved to Kona, Hawaii, with her husband over twenty years ago. She humorously notes that people from Yunnan are often too attached to their hometown to venture far. So, what prompted her to leave everything behind and move to the other side of the world? It all stems from her romantic encounter with Terry.
Before meeting Susan, Terry was already a coffee farmer in Hawaii. Each year, after the coffee harvest, he would travel around Southeast Asia during the off-season. In the year 2000, he chose to explore Yunnan and, serendipitously, Susan had just obtained her tour guide certification and had strong English skills. Through mutual friends, she became Terry’s local guide, introducing him to various villages, local crafts, delicious foods, and even participating in the Water Splashing Festival over three enjoyable weeks. It was during the final leg of their journey when an unexpected moment occurred—Terry proposed to her.
“He asked me, ‘Susan, do you have the courage to be my wife and come live abroad with me?'”
Taken aback, Susan initially didn’t respond. She had never considered him a potential romantic partner, especially given their 23-year age difference, leading her to decline the proposal.
After Terry returned home when his visa expired, it was a conversation with Susan’s mother that shifted her perspective. Susan recalls that her mother, who had limited education and spoke only their local language, offered her invaluable advice regarding marriage. “What do you want from marriage?” her mother asked. She noted that although Terry was older, he appeared healthy, and if they were truly in love, even a brief time together would be worthwhile.
Reflecting on her mother’s wisdom led Susan to reconsider Terry’s numerous admirable qualities: his deep respect for the local villagers and their cultures, his willingness to accept their food and drinks without complaint, and his genuine character. She decided to give him a chance, suggesting that they could begin dating if he returned the following year.
Over the next three years, Terry returned to Yunnan after the coffee harvest to spend time with Susan, traveling and sharing experiences together. During their long-distance relationship, he constantly sent her love letters expressing his longing, which Susan translated for her family. “Even though I was the only one in love, it felt as if my whole family was in love with him too. He loved me and our entire family,” Susan remarked, which ultimately led them to commit to a lifelong partnership. On the day Susan left her home, she felt excitement about leaving behind their long-distance relationship and starting a new life in another country, though Terry tearfully expressed, “You are such a good daughter to your mother, and I’m taking you so far away.”
Interestingly, other than differences in dietary habits, Susan acclimated quite well to her new home. Both Kona and Xishuangbanna are tropical regions with warm climates and an abundance of sunshine, even sharing similar fruit varieties. Additionally, Susan quickly connected with Terry’s friends in the area, cultivating a supportive social circle that made her feel like home was only five kilometers away.
Now, more than 20 years have passed since Susan left her hometown. She and Terry enjoy a rewarding life together, and their son Sonny has grown into a 19-year-old who spent his childhood on the coffee farm. Susan reflects on her earlier life, where she helped her family on their farm. She once thought she would distance herself from agriculture, yet here she is, back in the farming world as a coffee farmer. Though the financial returns are modest, and profits are continuously reinvested into the farm, her love for nature has led her to a fulfilling life.
“When I used to work a nine-to-five job, it felt like the outside world had nothing to do with me. Now, when I’m working in the field, I get wet in the rain or wear a hat when it’s sunny. I truly feel the changes in nature, and I have time to enjoy the sunset. The farm is where I really belong.”
Susan and Terry’s farm is called Da Kine Coffee Bean, and they can be reached at (808) 800-0878 or (808) 328-8716. For more information, visit their website at https://dakinecoffeebean.com.
